Dolly Kei

Dolly Kei Lolita by dizzylolibliss featuring opaque stockings

I've been meaning to make this post for sometime now and thought it was best I posted something after a long hiatus and why not let this be my first post back.

First off, what is Dolly kei?

Dolly kei first started Japan. It is a hodgepodge of elements that takes influence from historical fashion, Medieval, 1970's prairie style, eastern European tradition dress, Gothic stories, and a fondness for taxidermy

Dolly kei and Mori-girl have many motifs and themes in common, making it difficult to make out whether an outfits is Mori-girl or Dolly kei. Both styles evoke images of fairy tales. While Mori-girl might be what characters like Gretel, Rose Red or Rose White are wearing, Dolly kei would be what the witch or soothe-sayer is dressed in.

There is an undeniable spooky factor visable in Dolly kei that isn't in your typical Mori-girl (maybe in dark Mori-girl but that's something to be discussed in another post). Memento Mori jewelery such as broken porcelain doll's head necklaces, raven skull pendants, and butterfly wigs earrings are coordinated with tattered and noticeably wore clothes giving this style a more eerie mystique and separating it from the sweeter more innocent Mori-girl.

Grimoire is the boutique which birthed Dolly kei. It the most whimsical, and ghostly shop and website set up. It is so enchanting that you can nearly forget that perhaps the spine hanging from the ceiling  belonged to someone that is now of the dearly departed.

Is this style for you?

Do you enjoy Eastern European fairy tales?
Do you like dressing in vintage and worn dirndls and embroider aprons?
Do you have a taste for the macabre and dream of a pearl embellished crow skull broach?

Then Dolly kei may be for you.

Lolita VS Mori Girl

Ever dreamed of living in a quaint little cottage in the woods, well then perhaps you'll fall head over heels for the next Lolita hybrid: Mori Lolita.

Mori girl is an aesthetic that has charmed its way into the hearts of many since it first step out onto the fashion scene. Like Lolita fashion, Mori girl originated in Japan and draws from other fashions like natural kei.

"Mori" in Mori girl means forest in Japanese, and Mori girl seek to resemble a forest dwelling girl, or a forest fairy. The Mori girl aesthetic is attributed to Choco from the Mixi community (an online Japanese community similar to facebook), who became inspired after a friend commented that she looked like a forest girl.

What is Mori girl?
Ever imagined what Gretel, Heidi, and Little Red Ridding Hood would wear?

Well Mori girl fashion comes closest to what would be.

Innocence and quirkiness are essentially what a Mori girl wants to emulate. Muted tones, natural fibers, antique items and second hand pieces are all part of the Mori girl aesthetic. This style is very free form with guidelines not strick "must follow" rules.

Mori Lolita?

Now with the looseness of Mori girl and the sometimes rigid rules of Lolita, it is a little difficult to see how these could mesh well, but I believe that those that have found a fondness for Mori Lolita, have to find balance. There's a lot of give and take.

The sub-style best suited to adapt for Mori Lolita would have to be classic Lolita, though sweet Classic especially Classic Sweet Lolita would work well too. Classic and Mori girl share many motifs such as muted tones, floral prints, antique pieces and historical flair.

How to get the look?

Color is key: pastels are welcomed but mostly in a washed out tones; earthy browns like chestnut and chocolate are perfect; creams, off whites and white are also great colors for the Mori girl palette.

Prints: florals, forest theme, fairy tale characters, can all tie into Mori Lolita.

Accessories: think maybe one or two statement pieces of jewelry. Perhaps a simple cancan hat or flower pin for the hair. Remember simplicity is what keeps this aesthetic clean and whimiscal.

Knits and Crochet: shawls, cardigans, sweaters; knitted items all seem to scream forest dweller and should definitely be a part of a Mori Lolita's wardrobe.

Need more Mori girl?

Here's a couple of links

Choco's Mori girl community guidelines on Mixi: link!

Blog dedicated to Mori girl fashion: link!

Livejournal Mori girl community: link!

Mori Lolita by dizzylolibliss featuring flower tops

Lolita VS Steampunk

The Inventor Loli by dizzylolibliss featuring flower jewelry

Here is the first installment of Lolita vs Other Fashions. Lets begin!


This time around I want to focus on Steampunk Lolita, but let's begin with a quick overview. 

What is Steampunk any hoo?

Steampunk is a sub-genre of science fiction, alternate history, and speculative fiction that came into prominence during the 1980s and early 1990s.^[1] Specifically, steampunk involves an era or world where steam power is still widely used—usually the 19th century and often Victorian era Britain—that incorporates prominent elements of either science fiction or fantasy. Works of steampunk often feature anachronistic technology or futuristic innovations as Victorians may have envisioned them; in other words, based on a Victorian perspective on fashion, culture, architectural style, art, etc. This technology may include such fictional machines as those found in the works of H. G. Wells and Jules Verne or real technologies like the computer but developed earlier in an alternate history. 

From Wikipedia

Let's have some fun:

What is your Steampunk sensibility? Take this fun quiz to find out Hello Quizzy

Needs some guidelines? Check here: A sense of structure

Steampunk Lolita, wtf?


Many will argue til they are blue in the face that Steampunk-Lolita is not a substyle of Lolita, some will hear nothing less than that is is a valid substyle. Why is it so controversial a style? Well, it boils down to the question: "Is Steampunk cosplay?"

Lolita and cosplay are at odds. Most Lolitas do not want to be associated with cosplay in anyway, and rightfully so. Lolita isn't a costume, it is a fashion ( of course we needn't even mention the reasons here). No with all the technology that is invented for Steampunk outfits anything from jewellery to "hand guns," the cosplay line gets very blurry at best and non existant at worst. This doesn't mean that you have to swear off the Steampunk aesthetic in your Loli. If you have just been shot like Momoko in Kamikaze Girls by this hybrid, resist the urge to just throw a pair of googles on with your favorite Lolita garments. This hybrid will probably not mesh to well with OTT Sweet styles of clothing or gothic. The best would have to be classic especially if it is heavily influenced by the Victorian Era ...no Rococo please.

If you want more Steampunk heres a LJ community: Steampunk Fashion and for more Steampunk Lolita here's a LJ community for you too: The Aesthetic Engine!

Calling to All Sailor Lolita

Spring has brought a renewed interest of Sailor Lolita to brand fashion, both Meta and AP will release sailor themed items that are too cute to pass up.

Meta's Sailor Line

AP Sailor Line

I have to say that Meta's Sailor Pinafore Dress with Collar is my favorite. I love the vintage feel, it reminds me a little of Baby's Cherry Ribbon OP, which is one of my dream dresses. My favorite line? Well the jury is still out but I will day that I do love AP's mini cancan hat. Meta's line is all clean lines and can be seen on both sweet and classic lolita (changing accessories and hairstyle). AP's is definitely a sweet lolis interpretation of sailor especially with the pastels colorways. Which is your favorite?

Sailor, Pirate Lolita

The next set of Lolita sub-styles are the center of many debates of whether they count as an actual sub-style ( ie sweet, classic, or gothic) or if they are cosplay.

I like to begin with a definition of cosplay or costume play:

A type of performance art in which participants don costumes and accessories to represent a specific character or idea. Characters are often ^[2] drawn from popular fiction in Japan, but recent trends have included American cartoons and Sci-Fi as well as other pop-culture. Favorite sources include manga, anime,tokusatsu, comic books, graphic novels, video games, hentai and fantasy movies. Any entity from the real or virtual world that lends itself to dramatic interpretation may be taken up as a subject. Inanimate objects are given anthropomorphic forms and it is not unusual to see genders switched, with women playing male roles and vice versa.

Cosplayers often interact to create a subculture centered around role play. A broader use of the term cosplay applies it to any costumed role play in venues apart from the stage, regardless of the cultural context.

From Wikipedia

I like this definition, it is very in-depth. Of course it can be taken to mean that Pirate and Sailor are or are not cosplay. Ultimately it is in the eye of the beholder. For our purpose we will describe these styles as a sub-style of Lolita.

Sailor Lolita:

Sailor Lolita was more popular a few years back and like other sub-styles has fallen out of favor. Of course the name clearly implies what it is, it is lolita infused with the sailor theme.

Popular motifs are anchors, nautical strips, sailor collars and ties, cute sailor style hats. The usual colors are white and navy, white and black, or white and pink but red, white and blue combo can definitely work to achieve this look.

Since this sub-style isn't as popular there aren't many brands that release sailor style lolita. If you are interested in wearing this style be open to searching through off-brand sites like Bodyline and Fanplusfriend, or being vigilant for any brand releases.

Pirate Lolita

Pirate Lolita is rarely seen but it hasn't truly gone by the wayside. Baby's Alice and the Pirates is a brand that caters to this particular style.

Within Pirate Lolita there are sub-styles too.

• Sweet : link 1, link 2, link 3, link 4
• Gothic : link 1, link 2, link 3
• Classic : link 1, link 2, link 3

These separations have much to do with color, and motifs used. Sweet pirate lolita uses pinks and pastels, while gothic might use darker colors like black and purple , etc. Classic would probably dive into browns, maroons.

All use the same motifs with slight modification:

Skulls and cross bones, treasure chest, jewels, pearls, swords, cannons, eye patches, buckles

The use of tricorn hats, big lapels, buckle shoes and boots is prevalent.

Again Baby's Alice and the Pirates is a great place to begin your pirate lolita wardrobe but other brands, off brand and non japanese brands do occasionally release pirate theme items.

So keep an eye out if this is your flavor of Loli.

Wa and Qi Lolita

Among the hardest of the substyles to coordinate Wa and Qi Lolita tiers between what is considered lolita and what is cosplay. The seasoned coordinator might have an easier time establishing these styles into a truly Lolita outfit and not have it be knocked down as cosplay or worse and ita outfit.

I personally like Wa and Qi, dreaming of coordinated that still have yet to manifest.

The element of Japanese or Chinese traditional fashions are mixture with the lolita silhouette.

For Wa Lolita it is common to see yukata or kimono, obis, getta. Kanzashi and other traditional hair adornments are also worn. Meta also makes a kimono fabric jsk which are perfect for the beginner experimenting with Wa Loli.

In Qi Lolita it is usual to see a quipao usually modified to allow the cupcake skirt quintessential to Lolita underneath. Traditional Chinese hair adornments are also used to replace alice bows or the rectangular headdress.

Examples of a well done Wa and Qi lolita coordinate can be found here:

Wa loli 1

Wa loli 2

Qi loli 1

Qi loli 2

Brands that cater to Wa or Qi Lolita:

• Metamorphose temps de fille

Unfortunately Wa and Qi are not as commomn as before and searching in the major lolita brands will be a challenge, but if you look outside to the off brand arena you can find some elegant items.

• Fanplusfriend
• Bodyline

Another note:

Since Wa and Qi Lolita are a mixture of culture and Lolita fashion I would also like to share with you:

Han lolita a style that mixes Korean traditional Hanbok with Lolita, some examples:

• Han loli 1
• Han loli 2

Wryd Loli a style once coordinated by a member of the Livejournal Community, EGL, it s just lovely and fits with the articles theme.

If you want more info on Wa and Qi here are some links that may help:

• Waloli/Qiloli Style
• Wa loli Lolita Fashion

Shiro and Kuro Lolitas

Shiro Lolita and Kuro Lolita were also among the main substyles a few years back and have seemed to go by the wayside as of late, but with the resurgence of old school Lolita, these are two substyles worth mentioning. So what are Shiro and Kuro lolitas exactly? Lets begin in with Shiro-loli, while following all the basic guides of Lolita she prefers to dress in head to toe white, like her the Kuro Lolita prefers to stick to one color black.

Brands that cater to the Shiro and Kuro Lolis:

Items for the Shiro and Kuro substyle can be found in all Lolita brands all the rules of the basic Lolita silhouette apply with the added rule of using a one color color scheme.

Punk Lolita

The Punk Lolita like the Hime Lolita, has fallen out of popularity, but when I started it was one of the main substyles. The Punk Lolita is an ode to interpreting Lolita in any way you like. Mixing lolita with the punk elements: studded bets, plaid, torn up tights, and doc marten or engineer boots; The Punk Lolita is the tough cookie of all the Lolitas. At the forefront of the Punk Lolita is the singer and master punk/lolita mixer, Nana Kitade (pictured above).

Brands that cater to the punk lolita:

• Baby the Stars Shine Bright
• Putumayo
• Atelier Boz
• Black Peace Now
• Sex Pot Revenge

Hime Lolita

Looking over a copy of Kera magazine I eyed a Hime Lolita, I looked at her intently since its been a while since I've seen a Hime lolita. I would say that Hime Lolita is the link between Hime Gyaru and Lolita, evidence is in the big hair and the crown motifs present in both styles. Of course I would never suggest that one could interchange items between the two but I wouldn't be surprised if some did managed to pull off  either style with elements of the other.

What to expect of the Hime Lolita:

This Lolita is the princess of the land, she can be seen wearing tiaras or mini crowns. Like the Classic Lolita, which takes its inspiration from the Victorian Era, it is easy to see the Rococo influence in Hime Lolita. I imagine this Loli takes great inspiration from Queen Marie Antoinette.

Brands that Cater to the Hime Lolita:

• Baby the Stars Shine Bright
• Mary Magdalene
• Mille Fleurs
• Juliette et Justine

Kodona

Many would not list Kodona as Lolita, it lacks many elements to establish itself within the fashion. The silhouette which makes any style immediately recognizable as Lolita is missing and the above all ultra feminine quality is also absent. So why is it that it is mentioned at all?

It can be argued that Kodona is not Lolita, it can also be said that it is, because of the following premises: It features the frills and lace, that many sub-styles do; It attempts to recreate the doll look that many of the other sub-styles do; Finally many brands, that cater to Lolita also cater to Kodona.

So what is Kodona? It is the masculine equivalent of Lolita. Using many elements that can be seen in gothic, sweet, or classical styles of Lolita but instead of working in the classic cupcake skirt silhouette they turn to pants or breeches to complete the look.

Brands that cater to Kodona:

• Alice and the Pirates
• Innocent World
• Metamorphoses temp de fille
• Black Peace Now
• Putumayo
• Union Jack

Classical Lolita

Of the three styles Classical Lolita has the most apparent reference to the Victorian age, and the Rococo era.The Classic Lolita exudes elegance in muted tones and floral fabrics, relaying a more subdued but still Lolita style.The basic silhouette is present in Classical Lolita, but brands have been known to lower the hem or even get rid of the bell shaped skirt in favour of a more lady like pencil skirt a la Victorian Maiden or even use bustle skirt bringing back the late 19th century feel.

Brands that cater to Classical Lolita:

• Victorian Maiden
• Mary Magdalene
• Innocent World
• Juliette et Justine
• Millefleur
• Megan Maude
• Blasphemina's Closet

Sweet Lolita

Probably the most popular and the one most people associate with Lolita. She is the sugary sweet princess that portrays the innocent and colorful side of Loli.

Like her Gothic Loli sister she also has the basic silhouette but she dresses in pastels, cute prints and themes.

Though at the beginning sweet lolita was very similar to today's Classical Lolita , brands like Angelic Pretty, Baby the Stars Shine Bright, and Metamorphoses temps de fille have given its unique personality that is bubbly and whimsical.

Brands that cater to Sweet Lolita:

• Angelic Pretty
• Baby the Stars Shine Bright
• Metamorphose temps de fille
• Emily Temple Cute
• Heart E

Gothic Lolita

Perhaps the first to develop with in the fashion scope of Lolita, Gothic Lolita or GosuRori was birthed by the visual kei artists and fans. Mana the most recognizable Gothic Lolita and member of many Visual Kei musical groups among the Malice Mizer, has described the style as elegant coining the name Elegant Gothic Lolita (EGL). Mana is also the owner of his own Lolita brand, Moi-même-moitié, a brand that caters to Gothic Lolita substyle.

So who is the Gothic Lolita?
She hangs in the delicate balance between the sugary sweetness of the Sweet Lolita and the darkness of Western Gothic Styles. Like most of the other Lolita sub-styles, she works with in the silhouette though the gothic Loli employes darker colors and themes. Crosses, bats, coffins and perhaps a few skeletons are mixed in with themes of roses, Gothic iron gates and exquisite lace

Many brands cater specifically to the Gothic Loli

• Moi-même-moitié
• Excentrique
• Atelier Boz
• Black Peace Now
• h. Naoto